So Much Has Been Happening Part 2: Discovering Urumqi and a Trip to Tulfan

Okay, a lot of other stuff happened in the last 14 days or so, but unfortunately I've been so lazy I didn't write down even snippets of what went on, so I've forgotten a lot of events. Oh well, here's some stuff I CAN remember!

We've just been on an 8 day break (back to school tomorrow, supposedly, more on that later), and one of the things we wanted to do was go to Tulfan (aka Turpan), the lowest point in China and one of the hottest summer destinations (literally, they recorded a temperature of 59C there once, that's one of the hottest temperatures on earth let along China), but in autumn and spring it's supposed to be very nice. How convenient for us that it's autumn now (though some days it really doesnt feel it, far more summery). However, we had thought we might want to stay a night there, and see the place properly, so maybe having our passports back from the PSB would be useful. That and they were supposed to be ready for collection on the 30th, which is quite long enough without my main form of international ID thank you very much! So on the 30th we went to collect them. Now to his credit, the taxi driver did try and tell us when we got into his vehicle that the office was closed, but we had our receipt and we were sure this meant they'd be open to return our passports. After all, why issue a returning date on the receipt if you'll be closed? Banks don't tell you to come in on Christmas Day or a Bank Holiday do they? It's stupid. So off we went; when we got there however, the place was clearly closed. Despite Anniwar's sage advice that "the 30th is not a holiday, but you have the day off uni", we were once again disappointed and appalled with the Chinese system. The lesson to be learnt here is NEVER TRUST THE CHINESE ON ANYTHING THEY SAY, DO, OR PRINT. What made it worse is some people from Marta's class had been back before their due collection date (knowing that the place would be closed) and their passports had been ready for them. This is a seriously messed up country.

With not a lot else to do, Marta and I took a wander around the local area, the PSB office is not in our neighbourhood and we were curious to see what was to be seen ... not a lot really, what with it being a holiday and all. Drat. We did find a nice restaurant though, and it was exceedingly cheap (I'm going to be used to having meals for about 5 RMB and find myself totally out of my depth when I get back to England - "what? that costs how much? i'll have you know in CHINA i could eat for a tenth of your price, good day sir!") ... and then we went for a stroll. But quickly wished we hadnt. We took a gander down a small alley kind of road, hoping it would lead out the other side to another main road to see what there was, but no, it was a dead end. And this was kind of awful because it meant coming back down the same alley to get out. The alley that contained seriously dilapidated run-down buildings, small shops selling tatty looking veg, TV and electrical goods shops thrown in there too (as if to highlight the difference in the quality of goods, the veg being poor, the TVs looking actually very nice), animals in dire states (the treatment of cats and dogs in China is for the most part abysmal - the 2 cats in this alley were tied on cords that wouldn't even let them get off the box they sat on unless they wanted to be hanged, and the rabbits down the end of the alley were in a cage that just about kept them off the ground which was covered in their urine stains), but the worst sight was probably the man with disfigured hands (a lot of people seem to have strange mutilations, most likely from some kind of radiation poisoning) dejectedly sifting his way through a skip of raw throwings-out and general crap (literally in some cases). It was disgusting.

We left the alley quite quickly, but it didn't get better. To one side of us was a restaurant with a load of dogs chained up outside, and as we walked by it was obvious that (a) they were on chains all day long, poor things, (b) the restaurant was most likely one that served dog, and (c) a beautiful large dog was being taken inside the restaurant. We got a taxi home and didn't feel so much like exploring again that day.

Later in the week we took a trip down to Da Bazaar (the Grand International Bazaar to give it it's full title), on the recommendation of previous students and also because we wanted to see where we could get some delightfully cheap stuff for winter, even if we didn't buy on the spot. Well, Nikki, I have to say I'm disappointed. This isn't a dig at you by the way, but maybe you and I get our kicks out of different things, possibly the fact you never left Europe before you came to China the first time gave you different perspective. Also I don't know if you've ever been to the Middle East (or indeed WHERE in the Middle East you might have been to get the impression that it was akin to the Bazaar) ... well anyway, I digress. I personally didn't like it so much. It just felt like every other damn place I've been to in China where they have a large market. Lots of people, lots of shouting, lots of haggling, lots of watching your wallet and phone, rows of shops selling the same old stuff that you probably don't want to buy anyway, and lots of people using their halting broken English to attract your attention. It was like ShangYang market in Shanghai but ... dare I say it ... worse?! True, they had some good stalls, the mens's clothes section on floor 3 will get another look later in the year for winter clothes, and the alcohol store will also be revisited because of it's ridiculously cheap foreign imports (assuming they are real! but they look it) ... but in general the atmosphere was horribly samey, just like all the other large Chinese shopping places I have been to recently and in 2006. Worse though, was the proliferation of beggars. I thought beggars in other parts of China were bad, with their approaches and touching (nay grabbing) you, but here it's not their approach (which is actually non-existent) but their appearance. These people REALLY NEED HELP. Deformations and disabilities abound. It's horrible, and shocking to see a society that just doesnt care, especially in this area because I always had this view of Muslim communities that there's a sense of just that - community. Sticking together a bit in your area. Charity laws in Islam. Who knows, whatever I thought, I'm not seeing it here. And what's even worse is that my giving these people any of my money isn't really going to CHANGE anything for them. It might make things better for a brief moment but it isn't going to lift them out of their misery and poverty-stricken lives. Really, I came away from Da Bazaar with a very negative impression of things.

To break up this slightly negative tirade, I also found a couple of DVD stores this week. Thank god. I was wondering where all the fake DVDs in Urumqi had got to. Now I know at least 2 places where I can waste some cash on some semi-decent copies of movies of TV series' I may want to see. Anyone want anything? I can have a look for it and maybe get you it if you pay me. It's silly-cheap though. Around 8 - 10 RMB for a DVD, usually this DVD will have anything from 4 - 12 films on it, not all of them in great quality, but hey, you are only paying about 80p what do you expect! In Shanghai a lot of the DVDs were similar price and perfect quality, but this isn't Shanghai :P

Ah where was I, yes, negative things ... our trip to Tulfan wasn't REALLY a negative experience (actually very positive) but some ASPECTS were less than good. Tanya made the bookings for us all, through some company whose brochure she had acquired from somewhere - 220 RMB for a day trip to Tulfan, excellent. Meet at 0820 by her gates, where we will be collected? Great. So at 0820 we're standing there and no one has phoned. We call the company and they said something about meeting later. Er, right? How about now? 0845 someone turns up and takes us to some buses, about a mile away. Why not just tell us to meet you there?! We pay our 220 RMB and get on a coach. It drives to the Sheraton and we have to get off and board another coach (so why not tell us just to meet at the Sheraton?! Idiots, we could have had another hour in bed!) ... We set off on this coach and the tour guide comes round and says it'll be another 110 RMB each if we want to go INSIDE the attractions we are due to visit today. Sorry what? 220 wasn't enough? And what's this about attractions, I thought we were just going to Tulfan?! Ah no, we have it all wrong, this is a day out seeing various sights AROUND Tulfan. And to get into those sights we ... yes yes we need to give you 110 RMB. Thanks. So now we have bugger all money left to do anything else with all day, and I ended up lending Marta ANOTHER 100 RMB. That's not a complaint by the way, Marta's Mum, it's just a statement of fact. For anyone planning to come to China, read what I said above about NEVER TRUSTING THEM ON ANYTHING, THEY WILL RIP YOU OFF AND THEN SOME. THERE IS ALWAYS SOME STUPID HIDDEN CHARGE, SOME COST YOU DIDNT KNOW EXISTED, SOME THING THEY JUST "FORGOT" TO TELL YOU ABOUT. That's a complaint.

Well, to cut things short, so I can get back to complaining again, the day out was marvellous. We didnt understand the guide very much (hence us overstaying 20 minutes at the first location, a big vineyard with underground tunnels, much to the annoyance of the rest of our group), and she did talk A LOT - all the way to Tulfan she was reeling off information over a microphone, while the coach (which had no suspension at all) bumped its way for 2.5 hours from Urumqi to the vineyards. She was actively encouraged (I'm sure) every time she finished a massive speech about the area, by the Chinese people on board clapping enthusiastically at her fluent knowledge. Oh well, it's her job, it's a tour bus I suppose we ought to have expected this! The weather was very good - blue skies, 30C, could have done with more breeze, but made for spectacular views, and I think an excellent time was had by all. Not to labour a point though, but I would like to return to the whole not trusting the Chinese tour people thing. We were having lunch at some place, a very basic affair that couldnt have cost more than 3 RMB each, and for which we probably paid 20 as part of our package deal, and the guide started to kick up some fuss about us 3 eating. We hadn't paid or something. Tanya was busy with some problem that had arisen on the phone concerning some Russian students in another part of Xinjiang, Marta didnt know what was going on, and I had only the vaguest of ideas but I was hungry and just kept eating despite the guide. She rang her boss and put him on the phone to me, so I asked him what the hell she was on about? Not being allowed to eat when we paid the same 220 as everyone else. Well you should have seen her face change as soon as I said "not allowed to eat" - "oh no no no no, that's not what I said", she started out with ... "well what DID you say?", I queried, but was unable to understand her answer. Anyway, this Australian professor was there with a former student (Chinese) and they said the guide was just being stupid and that we'd all paid the same money, and not to worry about it, they didnt understand what she was on about either and they were fed up because there'd been talk of honeydew melon that hadn't shown up (there was a reason for this we found out later, but not a great one, and the guide said she'd buy us all some later, but that never happened either) ... tsk.

I took my pleasure that day in the landscapes and the times we were allowed off the coach to get away from some of the Chinese (except this one kid who took to trailing me a bit and talking some English, though a lot of the time it was hard to understand him). The sunset was brilliant. The ruins out in the desert were delightful. With the exception of the tour company attempting to rip us off, the day out was well worth it, however next time we do something like this we're going to get a group of five and hire a jeep plus driver for the day - which apparently can be got for about 400 RMB total, as opposed to the 990 RMB we ended up giving as a threesome going on this tour - and having a customised day out to ourselves. But you live and learn and as experiences go it was a good one. I've now seen Asia's second largest wind farm, some vineyards, underground tunnels, gorgeous sandy orange mountains against powder blue sky, clear night skies (wow), and houses cut into the landscape like I wrote about in an essay back in Newcastle but never actually SAW before

It really was fun.

EDIT - i tried to upload pics, but it wasnt liking it. maybe i'll post just a picture blog as my next entry.

上海 (Shanghai)

Well, I made it. After 2 flights, a stopover in Dubai, and a ride on the Shanghai underground system, I arrived at my hostel.

The flights were mostly uneventful, and I have to say Emirates are an extremely pleasant way to travel. Little touches made a lot of difference, for example the occasional (and not overpowering) injections of perfume into the cabin air supply to stop everyone smelling like long-journey, and the small pinpricks of bright white light that shine through the ceiling panels after the internal lights have been dimmed for passengers to sleep, that make up a night sky for anyone left awake ... unnecessary but a very nice touch. The food was good, and there was plenty of it, and the novelty of having a TV to hand was not lost on me :) That, and the 2 cameras mounted on the plane, offering a forward and downward view in realtime, delivered to your seat - I found myself just wanting to call "CUUUUUUT!" <-- skydivery reference.

There were a heap of other British students travelling to China, but they were all headed on some 3 week trip to Hangzhou, funded by the government (bar flights), for which I do recall receiving an email but of course the trip was of limited use / interest to me. Still, at least there was some extra company on the planes. By and large though, the trips were dull and I couldn't wait to get off the aircraft, although it has to be said, stepping off planes into an environment that is 30ish Celsius and humid (even at night, when we entered Dubai, it was like swimming outside in the air) is less than pleasant. Still, we were rapidly inside and air conditioned again (mmm, recycled air).

Shanghai wasnt much better - indeed, when I got off the Maglev (there's a high speed magnetic levitation train that runs from the airport to one of the city's metro stops, and only costs about £4.50, about 1/3 the price of a taxi ride) the first thing I did was find a stall selling water and pick up 2 bottles. Even having downed one of them, I found myself feeling a little funny on the metro ride across the city. Chinese metro lines are well serviced but very popular and at certain junctions (where lines connect, etc) the idea of personal space is lost completely. Stepping out into the area in which my hostel is located was a bit of a downer - it can hardly be said to be the most affluent of places. The hostel itself however is very good - air con, showers, toilet (both Western and Chinese, more on that later), food, a bar, computers, internet (wireless and free to use on their machines), etc etc. I'm in a mixed dorm of 4 people, I have a locker for my valuables, and it's costing about £5 per night, not bad at all! The only thing I would say is that having a shower is almost pointless, unless you can get out of the cubicle quickly, because the atmosphere is so hot and wet (even with the fan on in there) that even following a cold shower you find yourself sweating within seconds.

This being the case, I left showering low on my list of things to do. I paid for the accommodation, settled in a bit, and got some food and a beer inside me (the beer to try and send me to sleep a bit quicker), before having a shower (I had to buy soap from reception, not having brought any with me, d'oh!) and trying to sleep. I got about 4 hours kip before waking at about 0300. At 0400 I started to read, careful not to wake the other people in my dorm, but I think they are all heavy sleepers anyway. At about 0540 I had had enough and ventured outside, the smell of the local area no longer even getting to me (yeah, it's a tad ripe, so what), and got stared at by local people cycling by ... I tried unsuccessfully to order food in a small cafe type place, and then in the distance saw a corner shop, so I went for a gander and ended up buying some shampoo (I havent opened it yet, but I think from the pic on the outside it might smell like coconut) and a small flannel for travel washing on the train over the next couple of days. Then I popped next door to a larger restaurant eatery cafe type place and got a big bowl of beef noodles. Not the best dish ever but I had been hungry for hours by this point so I didnt much care. Later on I think I will try the dumplings / steamed breads / fried breads / etc ... it all looked quite decent and I'm not too worried about having caught anything nasty!

Even this early on in the morning the air is heavy and the sky is invisible, the veil of pollution and cloud being ominously low. I've come back to the hostel to use the internet, update this blog a bit, and maybe get my head down for an hour. I'm meeting a friend of a friend at 10 to get my train ticket to Urumqi, and from what I've been reading about hard-sleeper carriages, I'm not concerned at all that I will have an alright (if not a bit boring) ride. Other things to do over today and tomorrow are to find a torch (for things like reading when you think your nightlight will just disturb other people) and stock up on some food for the train - yes, they will have a dining car, but if there are things you really like (and there are) it's wise to buy them prior to boarding.

For the minute, that is pretty much all. If anyone would care to text me, I am still using my UK SIM card, the number is 00 44 (0) 7864 967 424 and I think I receive messages for free :)